Hidden in Plain Sight
5 Routes That Deserve More Traffic
By Micah Elconin
Sport climbing options in the Willamette Valley are rapidly expanding. I’m aware of over 500 routes that are about 90 minutes or less from Eugene. Just about every style is represented. Short. Long. Steep. Slabby. Crimps. Pockets. Basalt. Tuft. Andesite. There’s a lot to climb.
No doubt, you have favorite lines. Perhaps there’s also a few on your dream list for the future. Like restaurants, art, or vacation spots, most flock to the options with all the “hype”. Yet, we so easily miss the others that are hidden in plain sight.
Don’t fret! This locally obsessed climber is here to get you the goods. Here’s five routes between 5.10d and 5.12b that get all the stars, but are usually just collecting dust.
Machu Picchu Arete (5.11d/5.12a) at Lookout Point
Yes, the hike is steep. Yes, you have to be mindful of ticks and poison oak. Yes, the rock can be a bit sharp. But the view at Lookout Point is amazing, it’s never busy, and you’ll have your pick of some of the best 5.9 - 5.14a routes in Western Oregon.
For those already in the know, here’s a pro tip: check out the Machu Picchu Arete! Forest Weaver bolted and FA’d the line almost 20 years ago, but only a handful have climbed it since. Some may be deterred by the hard move right off the ground, but assuming you’ve warmed up your fingers, it shouldn’t feel much harder than a v3/4 boulder problem. Stick the move, flip the lip and then gently navigate up the low angle face to a stance near the second bolt. Now the fun begins. The next 30 feet or so of face/arete climbing is some of the best at the grade in these parts. Your ego may be bruised a bit en route, but I guarantee a redpoint of this line will be a fond memory for some time to come.
Access Notes: Consider stick clipping. The first move is hard and it’s runout to the second bolt. The FA climbed ground up, but most repeats have stick clipped the second bolt to make things feel a bit safer.
Heavy In Your Arms (5.11c) at Eagles Rest
There’s loads of people climbing 5.11 at Eagles Rest, but most miss the humble line situated off on its own between Bomb Shelter and Quarantine Wall. Often described as three different routes stacked on top of each other, this 35 meter rope stretcher is one of the most diverse lines at the crag. Hard pulls and high tension vert leads to a no hands rest just below a highly featured steep section. Launch into tricky compression on juggy sidepulls before finding another restful stance as the angle eases up. Finish up a seemingly featureless slab that will literally keep you on your toes till the chains are clipped. Smile and enjoy the view.
Access Notes: Best climbed with an 80 meter rope. However, one can safely lower on a 70 meter if the climber and belayer communicate well. Lower the climber to a ledge near the first bolt and then only when the climber is safe take them off belay. The climber can downclimb (there’s a fixed line) to the ground. Again, this method requires some additional focus. KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE!
Syzygy (5.10d) at Moondial
Yeah, I know. You’re a crusher and go to the Moondial to project the gnar. Maybe you’re working some of the amazing 5.12s out there. Maybe you’ve already sent most of them. But, I bet you haven’t redpointed Syzygy yet. Two words. Missed opportunity. For some reason, this one developed a reputation for being scary and hard for the grade. Sure, for those bold enough to lead it when soaking wet in the middle of the winter, it definitely feels insecure, but when the dry weather arrives, all you 5.12 climbers have no more excuses. Do yourselves a favor and actually redpoint this one. The rock is great. The moves are engaging. It's as safe as vert sport climbing can be. Hey, you might even consider getting it wired. Then you’ll actually have a route to warm up on before shredding skin on your project!
Access Notes: Starts at a belay down and right of the main ledge. However, its way easier to belay from the ledge. Belay the climber down to the stance. Then have them bump the first few draws up as they head up the line.
Straight, No Chaser (5.12b) at Flagstone
Of all the routes on this list, this may have seen the least amount of traffic in the past decade. Every Summer, quite a few folks hike up to the East Wall at Flagstone to put in work on Joy Luck Club. Some even manage to clip chains on David Tvedt’s ultra classic 5.12a. Yet few, if any, ever slide over a few meters to try Straight, No Chaser (5.12b). Bolted and FA’d by Peter Fralick almost 30 years ago (1995), this is a piece of the Willamette Valley’s sport climbing history. It’s steep, athletic, and climbs mostly pretty good holds… until the wall slabs out about halfway up. There’s a redpoint crux up there, but things quickly calm down for the easy, albeit runout finish. Sure, this one might feel a bit spicier than some of the more modern 5.12 in town, but is well worth the short adventure and a proud addition to one’s resume.
Access Notes: The upper slab will likely be VERY dirty when you arrive. The climbing is easy enough that a competent 5.12 climber should be able to “clean” on lead, but it’s also relatively easy to access the route from above by hiking further up the east wall and following the trail towards the top of the crag There’s a number of access anchors up there that can be used to get down to the route for cleaning or top roping.
The Big Bad Wolf (5.11c) at Wolf Rock
Who’s interested in a well featured roof climb 200 ft off the ground that’s sport bolted? Yes, this route exists in the Willamette Valley. You just have to climb some really good 5.10 to access it. The Big Bad Wolf looms above the other sport routes at Wolf Rock’s Great Arch. While many gaze up at the imposing roof above while circuiting options at the base, few realize the possibility of climbing on the incredible feature. Given the nature of other multipitch options at Wolf Rock, it’s easy to assume that such a line would be chossy and runout. Quite the contrary, The Big Bad Wolf follows good rock past many bolts. Aside from the necessary approach pitch and double rappel, it’s a straightforward sport climb that’s well within many climber’s ability levels.
Access Notes: The easiest access is via Get Up Stand Up (5.10d), but the other nearby routes can be used creatively to get there as well. You can climb and rappel with a 60 meter rope. It’s two rappels from the top of Big Bad Wolf to the ground.
There you have it folks. Five classics to be added to your list. Local cragging can easily go stale, especially if you’re getting out regularly. Mix it up every once in a while. You’ll likely shore up some weaknesses and rekindle your stoke in the process.
Photo of Micah Elconin taken by John Sullivan
Micah Elconin was hooked on climbing the moment he topped out his first route in 1998. Since then, he’s climbed all over the world including dozens of first ascents on the Central Coast of California and Oregon’s Willamette Valley. He coaches Eugene area athletes through Good Stone Climbing and is a member of the Climb Strong coaching team. His previous professional titles include courier, barista, teacher, private chef, non profit manager, and consultant.
